A recipe for change

About one in 10 Oregonians faces food insecurity. For students, that number is even more daunting. Fortunately, a committed mix of community members are working toward a solution.

written by MAKENZIE ELLIOTT

photographed by ISABEL LEMUS KRISTENSEN

illustrated by SOPHIE BARLOW

 

It’s 8:02 a.m. on a Tuesday outside of St. Mary’s Episcopal Church in Eugene, Oregon, as I wait for Mary Leighton to arrive. My instructions were clear: Meet at 8 a.m. near the back alley door of the church; look for the dirty white Toyota Matrix in the parking lot (that’s how I’d know Leighton was there to let me in); call to be let in — don’t ring the bell just in case the choir is taping music.

A few minutes later, Leighton, the coordinator for the Interfaith Food Hub, a program that offers packaged meals to community members in need, emerges around the corner. She motions me over to her car. “Come help,” she yells and then loads me up with a box of eggs to take inside.

Her tardiness was on-brand. As Leighton unlocks the back door, she launches into an anecdote about her struggle to manage time.

As soon as we enter the church’s kitchen, she puts me to work. Leighton hands me a purple and blue floral apron. I trade the notebook and pen in my hands for rubber gloves — but not before washing my hands, of course.

She assigns me the task of sanitizing the surfaces, and she begins to pull cartons of eggs out of the large stainless steel fridge. For a moment, Leighton’s soft humming and the buzz of a fan are the only noises in the kitchen.

Around 9 a.m., the other volunteers start rolling in. Niles, a former fraternity chef, gets to work seasoning the chicken. Tom and Janice begin boiling the eggs for the egg salad, and Mary Ann, the designated cookie maker, steps in to guide me through the process.

They tell me that earlier Niles had gone searching for a better chocolate chip cookie recipe than the premade dough normally used, and he finally settled on this new sour cream concoction. The made-from-scratch recipe means more preparation time, but the taste, he’s promised, will be worth it.

This Tuesday volunteer group began in April 2020 when First Christian Church’s weekly sit-down breakfast for unhoused community members shut down due to COVID-19 safety concerns. The meals prepared today will be put into containers and boxes, labeled and dropped off at organizations around Eugene that serve populations in need.

At age 75, Leighton has been involved in community work since she was a child, telling me volunteering became a permanent part of her life. She’s seen the need over the past two years working with the Interfaith Food Hub.

“We have failed so far as a community to provide for the most vulnerable members,” Leighton says. “So in the absence of prudent public policy, to make sure nobody goes hungry in the land of the rich, people volunteering food help will always be essential.”

According to a January 2022 Oregon State University report, one in 10 Oregonians is food insecure, meaning they don’t have consistent access to nutritious food. Food insecurity in Oregon has improved over the past 20 years, Mark Edwards, the OSU professor who authored the report, told me. Oregon’s food insecurity rate for 2018-2020 was 9.1%, the lowest rate measured in 25 years. However, certain groups remain vulnerable, including single mothers, people of color, renters and college students.

As a 20-year-old college student, I’m no stranger to increasing tuition prices and housing costs. I know the financial pain of $100 textbooks. But I have never had to intentionally skip a meal or ask myself how am I going to eat? The unfortunate reality, though, afflicts a third of my peers. 

At the University of Oregon, 36% of all students experience food insecurity during their college career, according to research from the UO’s Food Security Task Force. Around the country, that number is even higher. A 2019 Hope Center #RealCollege survey found about 39% of college students experienced food insecurity in the past 30 days. Community college students showed to be even more vulnerable. The Hope Center’s survey found that 63% of student respondents at Oregon community colleges identified as food insecure, housing insecure or homeless.

“I think sometimes we have this ideal view of what colleges look like,” Edwards said. “Everybody’s got a meal plan, everybody’s walking from one ivy-covered, brick building to the next. And yet the student body today is not like that; it’s dramatically more diverse.”

While I had seen food assistance programs advertised on campus, I did not grasp the severity of food insecurity among my peers. It wasn’t until I met with Ella Meloy that I began to see the problem.

Meloy, 21, works at the UO’s Student Sustainability Center focusing on promoting food security on campus. Her job includes helping to manage the UO’s Food Pantry, which offers food to high school and college students in the area.

 

University of Oregon students Ella Meloy, left, and Lindsey Nguyen organize the Produce Drop hosted by the Student Sustainability Center on Tuesdays.

 

I met Meloy, a third-year political science major at the UO, through a mutual friend who suggested I interview her for a class assignment. Along with her role at the SSC, she previously served as president of UO College Democrats and vice president of the Associated Students of the UO Senate. Most of her work with each organization focused on providing basic needs to the Eugene community.

One Tuesday afternoon, I joined Meloy outside of the Erb Memorial Union during the Produce Drop, an event hosted by the SSC where students can pick up fresh produce. A line of about 10 students wound its way through tables full of lettuce, bananas and apples.

Meloy, who earlier in the day had gone to a local food bank to pick up the produce, offered me a rundown of how the event works. Students scan a barcode, fill out a survey and then take the produce they want for free. When picking out the food, Meloy told me she tries to keep in mind what students like the best.


Pointing to a table full of Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) resources, Meloy explained that college students are more vulnerable when it comes to facing food insecurity. Many don’t know how to access programs like SNAP to help.


“It’s hard to navigate the government website especially if you’ve never had to do that on your own before,” she told me.


I wanted to know more. So I reached out to other members of the community who are fighting food insecurity. Eventually, I met Connie Browning, the Student Food Pantry Coordinator at Grace Lutheran Church, who gave me a tour of the pantry tucked away on 17th street.


A room inside Grace Lutheran Church was stocked with fresh produce, frozen meat and other non-perishables. In a typical week, over 100 students will visit the pantry during the two days it’s open, Browning said.

At the front desk, Izzy Hazard sat with a smile as she checked students in — often remembering each person’s name from previous weeks.


Hazard, who started volunteering in December 2020, said she was surprised by how many students utilize the pantry, but she told me she was grateful the resource was available.

“There shouldn’t really be a barrier when you’re a student to food,” Hazard said, “because you can’t study, you can’t learn, you can’t enjoy college if you’re hungry.”

The barriers to food in college is something Eric Dale knows well. Dale, a senior studying computer science at Portland State University, tells me he has struggled to access food while at PSU. During his first four years of college, he worked multiple full-time jobs to avoid taking out additional student loans. Tuition and housing ate up most of his funds, he said, leaving little to spend on groceries.

“I was only paying $600 a month for my apartment, but I made about $600 a month,” Dale, 24, said. “If I went shopping and tried to get food anywhere, it was difficult.”

PSU’s food pantry gave Dale regular access to nutritional food — and energized him for a lecture and other schoolwork.

“College students are busy. I’m thinking about six different projects and eight homework assignments and where am I going and who am I seeing next,” he told me. “It’s very easy to be like, wow, there is 0% chance I’m going to have time to eat in between these things.”


Dray Aguirre also understands the important role food plays for a student. Aguirre attends Central Oregon Community College where he is studying nursing.


After a turbulent childhood, Aguirre, 32, moved to Central Oregon from California in 2013 to “start over,” he said. He lived with his mother, who resided in the area, for a while, but in 2017 he moved into a trailer on a friend’s property. The trailer has little electricity and no restroom.


After holding a few different jobs, including one making soap on a goat farm — “a highlight of my life,” he told me — Aguirre enrolled at COCC. “I went to school to change things. I wanted to change my perspective. I wanted to change my life,” Aguirre said. “But there have been so many barriers, there have been so many things standing in the way for me for my personal success — because I don’t have a shower, I don’t have a restroom, I don’t have a kitchen to cook — and this lifestyle is rough.”


To qualify for SNAP benefits, a person must have less than $2,001 in combined checking and saving accounts. At times, Aguirre said he held jobs that paid above that eligibility requirement, meaning he didn’t have access to some of the federal resources to combat food and housing insecurity. He said he now has to rely on microwave meals because he doesn’t have access to a stove.


“It’s not healthy, but it’s keeping me going, keeping me in survival mode,” he said.


Initially, Aguirre did not tell anyone about his situation because of the stigma around housing and food insecurity. But as he got involved in various clubs on campus, he became more vocal about his situation. Eventually, he traveled to Oregon’s capitol, Salem, with members of his school and then to Washington D.C. with members of Partners for a Hunger-Free Oregon to lobby for more funding for students struggling to access basic needs.


“Students shouldn’t have to be hungry, and they shouldn’t have to worry about food or where to live when they’re trying to enhance their life, when they’re trying to be successful,” Aguirre said. “Navigating that is a job on its own, and it can be distracting and discouraging on their academics.”


Chris Baker, a former student-mother who personally struggled to access food while attending school, understands the struggle of non-traditional students. Baker is the legislative strategist for Partners for a Hunger-Free Oregon. While student food pantries are useful resources for college campuses, Baker emphasized the importance of legislative action.


“There’s no point in having a food pantry on your campus if you’re handing out rice and beans and a student is houseless and is living in their car and can’t cook that food,” Baker said.

Instead, Baker said universities should focus on a holistic approach to basic needs. Things like affordable meal plans, housing, healthcare and childcare should all play into a university’s plan for addressing food insecurity.


The state of Oregon has taken other steps to address access to basic needs on college campuses. In 2021, Oregon passed a bill requiring colleges and universities to hire a “benefits navigator” position to help students access aid programs.


Aguirre said he would like to see a program on college campuses that helps students in need find resources from the beginning of their college career. “People are listening in this time, and I want to just make sure it’s being known and try to help navigate whatever it is to get things done,” Aguirre said. “I’m about action. Politics is all about talking too much.”

 

Mary Leighton, the coordinator for the Interfaith Food Hub, spends her Tuesdays preparing packaged meals that go to community members in Eugene.

Leighton sorts through dozens of cookies in the kitchen of St. Mary’s Episcopal Church.

 

Whether someone is fighting to change legislation or offering a friendly smile to those arriving at the student food pantry, it is clear every role in this fight matters. After months of researching, I didn’t find the end-all-be-all solution to food insecurity, but I did discover the importance of the people working hard to solve it.

Back at St. Mary’s Episcopal Church, the clock hits noon. The aroma of over 300 baked cookies fills the air, and Mary Leighton is packing containers with chicken and egg salad that will be used to make over 700 sandwiches later in the week.

One by one, the volunteers shed their aprons, grab a cookie from the staff-allotted pile and head out the back door with a quick “goodbye” and “see you next week.” Leighton does a final walk-through of the kitchen before hitting the lights, and I carry a box of food outside.

Together, we fill her Matrix with tubs of hard-boiled eggs, salads and, of course, cookies. I watch as she closes her car door and heads out to her next destination, First Christian Church, where the next shift of volunteers will assemble and deliver meals.

“Doing this work is just a way to invest my time and energy in making the world a better place in the most simplest way,” Leighton says. “It’s a thing I needed to have in my life.”

A few weeks later, I received something I needed: The recipes for Nile’s oatmeal and chocolate chip cookies. They came via email.

“I do add ginger to the oatmeal cookies,” Niles shared. “And obviously add more chips to the sour cream ones.”


 

Ways to help

Volunteer with Interfaith Food Hub. Prepare bagged meals for community members struggling with food scarcity. Contact Verna Tjemsland, the Food Hub scheduler at vtjemsl@gmail.com.

Donate

Drop off non-perishable food items at the Student Food Pantry at Grace Lutheran Church, University of Oregon’s Student Sustainability Center or at Food For Lane County’s 2345 West Broadway location during its designated hours.